Rattlesnake Dens

As a wildlife biologist I have spent 35 years studying birds and reptiles.  Because of lack of fear, but deep respect, of rattlesnakes I am often asked to move a snake by a neighbor.  I use snake tongs and a snake hook to safely move the rattlesnake.  Once it is in the bucket with a good security lid and ready for transport there is usually a question I am asked.  Do I think there is a rattlesnake den on their property?  The answer is usually no.  Seeing one snake does not mean you have a den.   I hope to answer some questions people have asked about snakes and their dens in this blog.

First I think we need to define denning.  It is the gathering of snakes into at particular point for winter hibernation.  The snakes come from widespread summer ranges.  Rattlesnakes are not the only snake to den.  In fact rattlesnakes are known to den with other species of snakes such as the bullsnakes, milksnakes, racers, gartersnakes and copperheads.  The benefits of moisture and heat conservation that rattlesnakes gain by denning would likewise accrue with any other snake that den with them.

Denning proclivities are greater in the northern and in higher altitudes, because these protective refuges are obviously more necessary due the cooler and longer winter months.  In the south, where winters are milder shorter hibernation cycles occur, and may be interrupted by occasional warm spells.

Rattlesnake den in the rocks

This rattlesnake may be outside of his den in a rocky outcrop.

Where snakes den depends entirely on the habitat.  Where there are rocky formations the snakes seek deep caverns or crevices.  In the plains, the snakes use the holes of mammals, particularly favored are prairie dog holes.  The temperature not only affects the duration of hibernation, but the depth of the den.  The cooler the weather, the deeper the den will be located.  The snakes need to be below the frost line.  The snakes also prefer south facing slopes in rocky areas.  This protects them from cold northern winds and southern slopes receive more sun keeping the den warmer.

The size of the den depends on topography and climate.  Where suitable sites are widely separated, populations tend to be larger with reports of 1000 rattlesnakes congregated in a single den.  Even where good refuges are located close together the need for warmth and the gregarious nature of rattlesnakes lead to larger denning in the north.  Larger dens also tend to be in rock formations.  Where rattlesnakes utilize mammal dens the dens are temporary.  The snakes have no way to keep the galleries clear and the den eventually collapses.

In dens that have been opened up by road or mine excavations the snakes are found to lie torpid and virtually motionless in groups of masses or “balls”.  There have been observations of snake balls one foot in diameter and containing hundreds of snakes.

In the fall, it seems that larger and older snakes are the first back to the den.  It is believed that the older snakes leave a trail for the younger snakes to follow back to the den.

Scientists believe another benefit of denning may be a level of protection against enemies.  When the snakes are congregated in the dens they seem to be able, possibly by movement, to transmit a sense of alarm to each other.  The last benefit believed to come from denning is the ease of finding a mate in the spring.

Much more study of denning snakes is needed. With new tagging techniques and the smaller size of cameras more information about denning will soon be learned.  Even now one fact is clear, denning is an important aspect of a rattlesnake’s life and can be the difference of life or death.

Metabolic Bone Disease: What Is It and How Do I Prevent It?

Question:  I am new to keeping reptiles and I keep hearing about Metabolic Bone Disease.  What is it?  Are all reptile susceptible to it?

Answer:  Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is a common and easy to recognize disorder of pet reptiles. It is a complex disease, but, broken down to its simplest form, it results from an improper calcium to phosphorus ratio in the body. It is almost always a result of poor husbandry and is, in many cases, preventable by providing the proper diet and environment for your pet. This is not always the easy or inexpensive way to go, but is essential to the health of captive reptiles.  Not all reptiles are susceptible to MBD.  In general, if your lizard active during the day you should be preventing MBD.  Turtles and tortoises owners should be aware of MBD. You may see our Reptile Care at a Glance for information on your pet.

The normal calcium to phosphorus ratio is 2:1 (calcium: phosphorus). When the calcium level drops the animal’s body tries to correct it by taking calcium from wherever it can, for example the bones. This leads to bone softening and a gathering of fiber like tissue as the body tries to strengthen the bone without available calcium resulting in severe deformities of the spine, broken legs, and soft jaws. Vitamin D (especially D3) is also important to calcium metabolism, and because some reptiles do not absorb vitamin D well they need ultraviolet light exposure to manufacture their own vitamin D. Normally this is accomplished with natural sunlight. Reptiles in captivity seldom have access to natural sunlight so special bulbs giving off UVA and UVB light must be used as a substitute.

The signs and symptoms of MBD vary with the length of time over which the condition has developed. Because of the importance of calcium in bone formation and muscle function, most of the signs and symptoms are related to bone and muscle issues including:

1. Swollen or bowed legs or bumps on the long bones of the legs
2. Arched spine or bumps along bones of spine
3. Softening of the shell in turtles
4. Tremors or twitching in the muscles of the legs and toes
5. Broken bones due to bone weakness
6. Weakness and even partial paralysis resulting in the inability for
the animal to lift his legs or body off of the ground

Diagnosis is easy enough based on the symptoms in a physical exam. X-rays may be utilized to confirm the diagnosis and monitor treatment. Treatment always depends on the progress of the disease. For milder cases a switch to a balanced diet and proper husbandry may be enough, but advanced cases require intensive calcium and vitamin supplementation under a veterinarian’s care.

The most efficient way to avoid this malady is prevention. By providing your pet with a diet balanced in calcium and phosphorus, protein, energy and other nutrients, a good UVA/UVB light source, proper heat gradients, proper light/dark cycles (day and night) and adequate space to exercise Metabolic Bone Disease should not invade your reptile collection.

We do carry a number of products to help you offset the scourge of MBD. We now know that most diurnal (daytime active) reptiles require UVB light. Since the release of Zoo Med’s ReptiSun UVB lamps, dozens of scientific studies have confirmed their beneficial effect on reptiles. This series includes:

1. ReptiSun 5.0 and Repti Sun 10.0 Linear Fluorescent Bulbs- fits into standard fluorescent fixtures, is offered in two different models (5.0 and 10.0). The model used depends on the distance of the lamp to the reptile and the amount of UVB required. These lamps come in a variety of lengths depending on the size of the cage. Independent scientific studies have shown that these lamps are effective for a minimum of 12 months. These lights do not provide heat.

2. ReptiSun 5.0 Compact Fluorescent  and 10.0 Compact Fluorescent- These lamps offer the convenience of providing UVB using a standard screw-base type fixture. They are self-ballasted and do not require a separate ballast. These also provide UVB, UVA, and visible light. They do not provide heat.

3. Zoo Med has a ReptiSun 5.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent and 10.0 Mini Compact Fluorescent bulbs that will provide UVB light for smaller terrariums.  Be sure your reptile can bask within the range these bulbs give off UVB light.

3. PowerSun UV Mercury Vapor - provide UVB, UVA, visible light and heat. This is the only lamp that provides heat in addition to UV. These lamps screw into a clamp lamp fixture with a ceramic/porcelain socket and do not require a separate ballast.

There are also calcium and vitamin supplements with the proper ratio of calcium to phosphorous.  Most are available with or without vitamin D3 depending on the species involved and whether or not they are exposed to proper sunlight of UVB light. The various reptile diets should also contain the proper proportions of calcium to phosphorous and protein levels to assist in preventing Metabolic Bone Disease. Heat for proper metabolism may be provided by heat rocks, under tank heaters or by heat producing bulbs.

Utilizing these products you should be able to escape the ravages of MBD.

Rucker Canyon, Arizona Birds and Reptiles

When Tom and I go hiking we always have a problem as to where we should be looking.  Should we be looking up into the trees to see the birds, or should be be looking down at the rock slide to see if any reptiles are sunning.  Well last Sunday we got it right.

The day started off with high winds.  The birds were going to stay down and it would be hard to hear any bird songs.  High clouds we passing over so the sun was not warming rocky areas for herps.  But, we had the trip planned and the lunch packed so we took off.

Mountain Kingsnake picture at Tom's Reptile Supplies

The Arizona Mountain Kingsnake is a beautiful snake.

I should tell  you that Rucker Canyon is about 25 miles south of Portal. Arizona at the end of Tex Canyon Road.  Our first bird was a Swainson’s Hawk and it was our first for the year.  As we continued on up our next “goody” was a Mountain Kingsnake.  While watching him disappear into the forest we flushed a Hermit Thrush.  The day was looking up.

The day continued with sightings of  a Hepatic Tanager, Yellow-eyed Juncos, Striped Plateau Lizard, Horned Larks, Eastern Meadowlarks, Eastern Fence Lizards, Bewicks’s Wren (yes, we saw him, not just heard him) Mourning Doves, Ornate Tree Lizards,  American Robins, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Side-blotched Lizard, Bridled Titmouse, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Lesser Earless Lizard, Turkey Vulture, Mexican Jays, Western Tanager and a Coot.

Hermit Thrush from blog at Tom's Bird Feeders

The Hermit Thrush is always a great bird to see.

As you can tell we started counting species on the desert scrub brush and continued our trip to deciduous streamside through pine forest.  That’s one of the great benefits of being here, you can find many different habitats when you live in the Sky Islands of Arizona.  And that means a chance to see a large number of species of both birds and reptiles.

Not bad for a windy, cloudy day!

 

How Do I Treat Snake Mites?

Question: I recently purchased a corn snake (ghost). Once I got it home I soon saw some swelling between the eyeballs and the orbital scales and a white ring around the eyes. I also found mites. Could the mites be causing the problem around the eyes? It doesn’t seem to be bothering the snake.

Answer: This is a perfect opportunity for me to remind everyone to always quarantine new animals. Mites can spread and infect every reptile in your collection. Mites not only suck blood but can spread disease.

Now to answer your question, your first step is to eradicate the mites. I would take all of the bedding out of the cage and throw it away. Thoroughly clean the cage with Wipe Out. Treat the snake with Mite Off following the directions on the bottle. Place newspaper on the floor of the cage during treatment. Be sure to clean any hides or dishes. It is easier to see mites on the newspaper than in bedding. Once you are sure the mites are gone see if the swelling disappears. If any redness, irritation or changes in behavior are noticed while you are treating the problem, it is time to see a vet. If eradicating the mites does not solve the problem, it is time to seek professional advice.

This will give you some idea of the size of mites.

This will give you some idea of the size of mites.

Problem Shedding in Pet Reptiles

Question: My Corn Snake seems to have trouble shedding. The skin comes off in ragged pieces and sometimes he has trouble shedding the eye area. Is there anything I can do to help him? Will it hurt him if I help by gently pulling the skin off?

Answer: Medically, this condition is called dysecdysis, but in simple terms, improper shedding will suffice. In almost every case this condition is a symptom of a problem, not a primary problem. In other words, nearly all cases are the result of improper husbandry or handling issues. It is found in both snakes and lizards.

Husbandry factors which may cause dysecdysis include low cage temperature, lack of adequate humidity, improper nutrition and not having the proper cage furniture for the snake to rub its skin on. You should check each of these areas for problems. The place to start is to know what the requirements in each of these areas are for your snake. You can go to our Reptile Care at a Glance Chart to find the requirements for your pet. Once you have the requirements you would also need the tools to monitor the requirements, especially temperature and humidity as these are often the cause of this malady. A good dual temperature and humidity gauge will always tell you if you have a problem. A rough rock, hide or rough piece of wood or branch will also help the snake in rubbing the old skin off. Once the factor causing the problem is corrected the shedding should return to normal.

In some cases handling the snake during its shed cycle can cause damage to the skin and cause it to come off in patches. Your snake should develop a blue film over the eyes during the shed cycle and during this time the snake should not be handled.

In the instance when you have the problem of a bad shed before you it is important to treat your snake. The dead skin needs to be removed as it can harbor many disease causing organisms such as mites, bacteria or fungi. However, do not rip the skin off yourself as this may damage the fresh new skin below if done improperly. For snakes or lizards, the best way to remove tattered skin is to soak the animal in tepid water which is just deep enough to cover the animal’s body but not deep enough to drown it. It is very important to never leave a soaking reptile unattended. After soaking apply a good shed aid to the entire body. Then release it back into its tank with all other husbandry areas set up properly. Sometimes it will take two or three soakings to remedy the situation, but, be patient. In situations where soaking is impractical you may gently, but very thoroughly mist the snake or lizard and follow the same instructions.

As the snake or lizard sheds always check the skin over the eye which is called the spectacle or eye cap. These eye caps act as clear eyelids and protect the cornea of the eye from damage. If they are retained during the shed the eye may become infected. These retained eye caps can be hard to remove and the best action is to use the soaking or misting technique discussed earlier and let the snake take it off itself. In an emergency you can hold a moist rag over the the eye caps for about 15 minutes. Then allow the head and eyes to dry. When dry, gently press a piece of Scotch tape onto the retained eye cap and very gently pull the tape off. If there are no other complications, the eye cap should come off. If it does not come off easily then it is time for a veterinary consultation as there is probably a complication of some sort involved.

If all of the requirements of handling, heat, humidity, food and furniture are taken care of then problems with improper shedding in pet reptiles should be minimal.

Red to Yellow Kills a Fellow

Arizona Coral Snake in Our Driveway

A few days ago, I was on my way out to check our Box Turtles when I caught a slight movement out of the corner of my eye.  There, crawling slowly across the gravel of our driveway was a beautiful 14 inch long Arizona Coral Snake.  I quickly brought into my head the old adage “Red to yellow kills a fellow.  Red to black venom lack.”  I did this because, in addition to having the highly venomous neurotoxic Coral Snake locally we also have the Sonoran Mountain Kingsnake in the area and the New Mexico Milk Snake is native to the next mountain range to the east of us.  Both are harmless Coral Snake “look a likes.”  The above adage helps to sort out the venomous from the harmless.

It was easy to see the bright red bands of this snake bordered with light yellow bands even from 10 feet away so I knew that the snake I had was, in fact, venomous.  Arizona Coral Snakes are fairly common in our area of southeastern Arizona although very few people actually see them.  For the most part they are nocturnal and are most often observed at or soon after dusk on warm rainy evenings.  Their generally flat build is an indication of their preferred habitat under rocks and in crevices in rock walls.  They feed on other small snakes including the Blind Snakes and Black-headed Snakes and small lizards.  All of these are common in our area.

As Arizona Coral Snakes go, this was one of the largest I have observed.  Most individuals in our area are from 8-12 inches in length.  We have an informal truce with all of the wildlife on our property.  Unless they are causing property damage we leave them alone to go about their lives.  This snake made its way into our rock wall which should provide it with a happy home and a great food source.

Two days after the sighting in our yard a neighbor called to report that he had a Coral Snake caught in his cattle guard.  He is much nearer to Sonoran Mountain Kingsnake habitat than our local Coral Snake habitat so I thought at first that he might be mistaken.  Upon reaching the scene 10 minutes later I found that he was correct and he did, in fact, have a 12 inch Arizona Coral Snake trapped in his cattle guard.  I took out my Midwest snake tong and snake hook and worked the little fellow out of the cattle guard and into an empty quart jar.  I had learned long ago that Coral Snakes are escape artists and that they easily find the way out of my snake bucket that I use for moving rattlesnakes and snake bags.  As our friend really did not want a venomous snake near his home, I took this little waif home with me and released him in the rock wall near where the first snake had disappeared.  Maybe we will get a population on our property in years to come.

Previous to this year I had never observed more than one Arizona Coral Snake in any one year.  Last night I was called out on a fire near my home ( I am a volunteer fireman in our small town.)  During the course of putting out a small structure fire I located a third specimen.  This one was a little smaller than the first two and, in an effort to save it from any other firefighters which might notice him, I caught him and placed him in an empty Gatorade bottle.  This specimen was donated to a friend who maintains an educational reptile collection.  He will be set up next to a display with a Sonoran Mountain Kingsnake to show off the differences between the two species.

These are truly beautiful little snakes and it has been a pure pleasure to see three of them within a week’s time.

Herman, the Bearded Dragon

I was at Southwest Wings Birding Festival when I noticed David a 10 1/2 almost 10 and 3/4 year old boy looking at our novelty signs. I couldn’t tell if he was looking at the bird signs, dog signs or the reptile signs. When I asked David which sign he liked he replied that he liked the sign like his pet, Herman the Second. With a name like Herman I took the dachshund sign down.

David’s father started laughing at me and told David to tell me what he had for a pet. It seems that Herman the Second is a Bearded Dragon. The story goes that David’s Grandmother had a dachshund named Herman Von Clouse. David and Herman were great friends. They liked to play in the sand pile. Well, David played while Herman slept in the sun. They also shared a chair while watching TV. Herman died when David was 7 years old. For David’s eighth birthday, his family tried to find a new puppy. None of the puppies could compare to Herman Von Clouse.

The family was wandering around the pet store deciding what to do. David found the reptile section and became fascinated with the lizards. David and his father went home to research lizards. They found that Bearded Dragon care was easy and they made great first pets. David brought his Bearded Dragon home and was sitting in the same chair he had shared with the dachshund when Grandma asked what the lizard’s name was. David replied Herman the Second. Grandma thought it was a great name.

A great new friendship was started.

Diamondback Rattlesnake Makes Christmas Visit

Here in Portal, AZ most of our snakes are brumating for the winter, however each December we have a few hardy snakes that make a surprise visit.  Today we were called to help move a Diamondback Rattlesnake out of  a firewood pile.  The call came in early afternoon from a lady who wanted the snake moved and definitely not killed.  We love calls like this!

We grabbed our professional field hook  that is made specifically to turn logs so we could tear the firewood pile apart without getting our hands in harms way.  We also took a set of snake tongs to control the head  and a snake hook in case it was a large snake and we needed to support the back third of the snake while we placed him in a bucket with a secure bucket lid for snakes.

When we arrived on scene the lady had the snake pinned and was hoping we were coming soon.  Now you may be wondering why I am blogging about such an everyday occurrence.

Is it because we have a Rattlesnake up in December?  No, we have a few each year.

Is it because the lady wanted it moved and not killed?  No, this lady had a great respect for all of nature’s animals and has been known to trap and release mice when they are in her home.

Is it because she had the snake pinned when we got there?  Now you are getting close, you see this lady is 90+ years old and had to hold onto the porch railing to do this.  This is because she had used her cane to pull the 4 foot snake out from the woodpile and was using the handle on the cane to pin the snake’s head.

We both exclaimed at the same time “What do you think you are doing?”

She gave us a sour look and stated she had been moving snakes longer than we had been out of diapers.  She also reminded us that the snake wasn’t moving any faster than she was.  After all it was December.

We used the snake tongs and the snake hook to place the snake in the bucket and took it a safe distance from the house next to a rock pile.  The only question we have at this point is should we carry a cane when it is time to move the next snake?

Everybody Should Have Great Turtle Friends!

A friend who helps you when you are down is the greatest gift of all. This is a must see:

Spring is Truly Here! The Reptiles are Out

Ornate Tree Lizard

Over the past few days we have observed a number of bird species that we consider true signs of spring.  Several hummingbird species are coming in to our hummbingbird feeders now and we had our first Scott’s Oriole at our recycled oriole feeder and a Lawrence’s Goldfinch at our stainless steel thistle feeder.  We also saw our first Turkey Vulture (the true sign of spring in Portal).  An additional sign of spring comes when the reptiles come out to play.  Today we had several Ornate Tree Lizards sunning on the walls of our turtle enclosures. They were a joy to watch as they sunned for a while and then scurried around grabbing small insects which were landing on the walls. We should develop a Lizard Crossing sign to put up on the sidewalk between our house and our office as quite often, in the summer, the lizards come close to plowing into us as they pursue their food in our path. Our first Ornate Box Turtles were out and around in their enclosure and two Russian Tortoises were out exploring today. When the cold blooded creatures come out we know that spring is truly here and that the freezing weather is behind us.

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